Cobra (Blu-ray SteelBook) (HMV Exclusive) [UK]
- Thread starter Flloydo
- Start date
If you’ve ordered cobra be careful when taking off the j card glue dots. They’ve taken off a small matte layer. First I thought it was glue residue but it’s not. it’s taken the matte off. Might have to order another and try again
Beautiful steelbook though. Especially for the price
Beautiful steelbook though. Especially for the price
Those ******* glue dots are a nightmare sometimes. They left a huge bubble on my National Lampoons Vacation the other day and the gladiator titans of cult ones were so sticky it actually managed to rip the slip.
Usually residue from them on a steel you can get off but this ain’t budging so it must of lifted the matte layer off. Because it is glossy underneath due to the title, glasses and back image (which I forgot to take a pic of in the light). No chance of getting residue off of other materials/ fabrics
Which was one of the deciding factors of why I sent the Exorcist bible edition back
Shame because this is one of the cleanest steels I’ve seen in a while. It’s stunning for 14 quid
Nice haul of finishes today, both ghostbusters and Godzilla X kong are full gloss and this and tango & cash with the spot gloss and debossing
Yea mine has the same issue, Tango and Clash didnt have this issue though
not as good as the tango & cash steelbook, but also a beauty. cant wait to get my copies.
I'm still waiting for Godzilla to take payment. It tried and failed twice (my fault) but hasn't tried the 3rd yet. I got my cobra and tango and cash and team america today, Ghostbusters got dispatched this morning. Looking like a good haul. The tango and cash and cobra are far better than I had expected. Especially the bullet hole in tango and the sunglasses on cobra. Someone in charge of these actually cared for a change.
The „gloss” is always applied last, since it is a (special kind of) varnish. And varnish is a form of paint coating that made the paint underneath it „pop” and LAST (since it is usually very hard, heavy-duty tolerant). I know this from the company I work at, which produces special packages for various products, and despite the production is on carton/cardboard, the principles stands (also when painting cars, for example).
Yet, if you indeed got off the paint from your SteelBook with that glue, then this would be a confirmation that Scanavo (and their customers) doesn't really cover SteelBooks AT ALL with ANY kind of varnish*, which should PROTECT the paint from many sorts of damages. I would go that far into saying that if one of this kind of „painted” SteelBooks, is somehow bent or dented, and then trying to unbent or straightened the dent, would most likely produce chips in the paint (you know, you can „un-dent” SteelBooks same ways that you do with cars bodies [those made from metal sheet, at least], with suction/vacuum tools, right?
).Edit: *aside the premium SteelBooks which seems to still have the gloss, hence HOPEFULLY also GOOD varnish (cause here too could be „bad” ones, or too much diluted).
Isn’t it a fact that the gloss layer is underneath on a matte steel with spot glossing?The „gloss” is always applied last, since it is a (special kind of) varnish. And varnish is a form of paint coating that made the paint underneath it „pop” and LAST (since it is usually very hard, heavy-duty tolerant). I know this from the company I work at, which produces special packages for various products, and despite the production is on carton/cardboard, the principles stands (also when painting cars, for example).
Yet, if you indeed got off the paint from your SteelBook with that glue, then this would be a confirmation that Scanavo (and their customers) doesn't really cover SteelBooks AT ALL with ANY kind of varnish*, which should PROTECT the paint from many sorts of damages. I would go that far into saying that if one of this kind of „painted” SteelBooks, is somehow bent or dented, and then trying to unbent or straightened the dent, would most likely produce chips in the paint (you know, you can „un-dent” SteelBooks same ways that you do with cars bodies [those made from metal sheet, at least], with suction/vacuum tools, right?
Edit: *aside the premium SteelBooks which seems to still have the gloss, hence HOPEFULLY also GOOD varnish (cause here too could be „bad” ones, or too much diluted).
Also heavy duty? While I have noticed spot gloss steels seem less scratch prone than full gloss. I have some high gloss steels that get new scratches if I so much as look at them, while they arel still on the shelf. **** the Nova steels get micro scratches from the ******* booklet.
Nope....
It MIGHT be some cases where there the „canvas” (paper, board, tin, steel, etc.) CAN be initially „primed”, so that the other coats of paint will adhere better and keep their color longer, but we saw Scanavo STOP doing this when we started to see the „metallic” effect on SteelBooks.
Usually the „primer” is one plain color, based on the flowing paintings that will be put over it; for dark colors, dark primer/background, for light colors, light primer/background (obviously, right?), and so on.
After primer/base/background, comes each color, one by one, in their respective places, based on the picture/artwork. After all colors are painted, then it comes the turn of the gloss (nothing more than a transparent lacquer/varnish), then the last, the varnish to protect all below it.
For the part where just parts are „gloss”, the same process as in painting applies, and they „paint” with that transparent lacquer/varnish, just some parts... or spots, if you want (got it? „spot-gloss”?
).Also, that's how/why, some SteelBooks look „shinier” than others: those shinier, have both the transparent lacquer and the final varnish, hence „double-gloss”.
Here, in this process, I'm sure you can „spot” the places where can be done „reductions”, cost-cuts, cut-corners, etc. for them to put less, and ask same price (like the chocolate bars, that went from 100grams, to 90grams, 80grams, and so on).
Check YT videos on how they do those custom painted cars (especially those with multiple colors or „models”/writing on them), and you'll see exactly how the process is done.
And since cars have (most of the time, STILL) tin body, you can „imagine” those are bigger-SteelBooks being painted, not cars.
After you saw those, tell (show) me if you EVER see that gloss being painted over. If it is, then I don't know the process as well as I think I do.
Oh, BTW, do you know some of the packages, that have gold/silver FOIL on them? That „spot-FOIL” is also applied last, after all paintings, but BEFORE any kind of varnish (if it would be over something glossy, would not stick). In SteelBooks we could saw some „holo-foil” which is similar, first the „foil” („holo” in this case), and then the gloss/varnish. Sure, on cardboard boxes, you will see more times the foil directly, because there is USUALLY no varnish over it (on the chocolate bonbons, for example, or some Chivas Royal/Regal boxes, or whatever would be the name, I'm not a drinker).
... I think that was enough... and if not... huh...
Sure, that „heavy-duty” varnish, I believe is long gone, especially from WWA SteelBooks... not to mention their QUALITY (which = with COST).
And, tell me this, what would you see first a VERY SMALL scratch, on a mirror, or on a sanded (matte) glass? Rememer that there are some new cars that no longer have „glossy” paint on them? Have you seen the scratches on those? I bet not so easy, right?
On top of all, the quality of the paint AND the method used to apply it, matters more than you can believe. (to say it crude [but true comparison], there's „some” difference between a fifth-grader painting and Rembrandt/Van Gogh/Picasso or other of the great painters, despite bot used similar colors/paint, if you understand my analogy).
@Flloydo i used to have a neighbour did printing and i think spot glossing would be done last on the actual screen for just the sun glasses. otherwise if the put gloss over whole steel only to the do the matt as your thinking that would cost them a fortune in production no?
have you considered you may just have some extremely stubborn glue residue?
may i suggest try using a hair dryer and have some baby wipes for when heated up this may help(use them on our glass induction hob work a treat)
have you considered you may just have some extremely stubborn glue residue?
may i suggest try using a hair dryer and have some baby wipes for when heated up this may help(use them on our glass induction hob work a treat)
Nope....
It MIGHT be some cases where there the „canvas” (paper, board, tin, steel, etc.) CAN be initially „primed”, so that the other coats of paint will adhere better and keep their color longer, but we saw Scanavo STOP doing this when we started to see the „metallic” effect on SteelBooks.
Usually the „primer” is one plain color, based on the flowing paintings that will be put over it; for dark colors, dark primer/background, for light colors, light primer/background (obviously, right?), and so on.
After primer/base/background, comes each color, one by one, in their respective places, based on the picture/artwork. After all colors are painted, then it comes the turn of the gloss (nothing more than a transparent lacquer/varnish), then the last, the varnish to protect all below it.
For the part where just parts are „gloss”, the same process as in painting applies, and they „paint” with that transparent lacquer/varnish, just some parts... or spots, if you want (got it? „spot-gloss”?
Also, that's how/why, some SteelBooks look „shinier” than others: those shinier, have both the transparent lacquer and the final varnish, hence „double-gloss”.
Here, in this process, I'm sure you can „spot” the places where can be done „reductions”, cost-cuts, cut-corners, etc. for them to put less, and ask same price (like the chocolate bars, that went from 100grams, to 90grams, 80grams, and so on).
Check YT videos on how they do those custom painted cars (especially those with multiple colors or „models”/writing on them), and you'll see exactly how the process is done.
And since cars have (most of the time, STILL) tin body, you can „imagine” those are bigger-SteelBooks being painted, not cars.
After you saw those, tell (show) me if you EVER see that gloss being painted over. If it is, then I don't know the process as well as I think I do.
Oh, BTW, do you know some of the packages, that have gold/silver FOIL on them? That „spot-FOIL” is also applied last, after all paintings, but BEFORE any kind of varnish (if it would be over something glossy, would not stick). In SteelBooks we could saw some „holo-foil” which is similar, first the „foil” („holo” in this case), and then the gloss/varnish. Sure, on cardboard boxes, you will see more times the foil directly, because there is USUALLY no varnish over it (on the chocolate bonbons, for example, or some Chivas Royal/Regal boxes, or whatever would be the name, I'm not a drinker).
... I think that was enough... and if not... huh...
Yes it is, checked a bunch of my steelbooks. You can see the gloss on all sides.
Those that are all matte, are matte on the sides, but spot glossy ones have shiny gloss sides. Same as all-gloss ones of course.
Thought so. And yeah the sides are gloss on a spot glossed steel. Felix has gone a bit OTT with all that. Kind of a TL;DR situation. Plus printing is different for so many things.
Yeah, but more words about everything, and formatting makes it look like an 'expert' opinion.
I've edited this reply a bunch of times to make it less offensive...
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